RELATING WAVE GEOMETRY AND SURFACE DYNAMICS TO SUBSURFACE VELOCITIES

Quantifying subsurface velocity in the surf-zone beneath shoaling/breaking/broken waves is critical to accurately predict nearshore processes such as sediment transport [Hsu and Hanes, 2004]. The in-situ instruments designed measure this where break, velocimeters, routinely get buried, broken, or lost surf-zone. This limits our ability collect field datasets of energetic wave conditions. To address this, we propose build on known relationships that link behavior more easily observable surface signatures. Here, necessary data test hypothesis measurements can profiles extending bed.